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Anyone ever have repeat issues with the balancing of their tires?
Bought 2 new tires to replace 2 worn. Now all 4 tires are the same brand/model of tire.
The other set has about 10,000 miles on them, but the tread looks almost new.
After having the 2 new tires installed (on the rear, while the other two were rotated to the front)... I went out to drive and whenever i hit speeds above 60mph, I could hear vibration (like a propeller sound) and feel slight vibration on the steering wheel. I ended my night of driving early as a result and took my car back in to Discount Tire, where they were installed. The re-balanced them for free, but confirmed all 4 tires were out of balance, despite having been installed and balanced the day prior. No possible explanation given.
After the re-balancing, I took the car on a test drive on the highway and everything sounded good.
Go out to drive that night... everything seems good for most of the night, then poof... propeller sound and vibration returns.
Based on what I have read thus far, the first thing I suspect are the weights not staying in place, which seems to support the observation: "it was working fine then went back out of balance in a matter of a few hundred miles, etc"
This suggests possible problems with the equipment at that specific store, the staff using it, or the process they use (maybe combination of all those issues). I intend to test this theory by going to a different store (same company) I have used in the past and never had issues with to see if their balancing efforts last. If that fails, I will try one last time, but this time with an entirely different company. Any suggestions which company to go to?
If that does not resolve the issue, other scenarios I have read about:
Wheel & Tire Runout: Sometime wheels will still shake and vibrate even after they have been carefully balanced. The problem is often excessive wheel runout or tire runout. Most tires should have less than .030 to .050 inch of runout. An out-of-round tire can produce harmonic vibrations that come and go at various speeds depending on how many "humps" are in the tire.
Runout problems can often be corrected by "match mounting" the tire on the wheel (rotating the tire so the tire high spot is over the rim low spot).
Radial force variation (RFV): This is the amount of change in stiffness of the sidewall and footprint when a load is placed against a tire. Subtle differences in the position of the cords and belts in a tire's construction can create stiff spots that make the tire roll unevenly. The stiff spots act like runout to cause vibrations at various speeds.
Some high end tire balancers (such as the GSP 9700 made by Hunter Engineering) have a large roller that can be placed against the tire to detect runout. If RFV is present, it shows the technician where it is and how to correct it. RFV can be countered by adding offsetting weights and/or rotating the tire on the rim. It also makes it easier to determine if a tire is responsible for a vibration problem or not.
Driveline or Powertrain:
If there is no runout problem, no RFV and the tire is accurately balanced, but the car still vibrates, the vibration is in the driveline or powertrain, not the wheels and tires.
Has anyone ever heard of: Counteract Balancing Beads? http://www.counteractbalancing.com/
Is this just a hyped up sales-pitch? Has anyone used them?
Thanks in advance for any feedback.
Bought 2 new tires to replace 2 worn. Now all 4 tires are the same brand/model of tire.
The other set has about 10,000 miles on them, but the tread looks almost new.
After having the 2 new tires installed (on the rear, while the other two were rotated to the front)... I went out to drive and whenever i hit speeds above 60mph, I could hear vibration (like a propeller sound) and feel slight vibration on the steering wheel. I ended my night of driving early as a result and took my car back in to Discount Tire, where they were installed. The re-balanced them for free, but confirmed all 4 tires were out of balance, despite having been installed and balanced the day prior. No possible explanation given.
After the re-balancing, I took the car on a test drive on the highway and everything sounded good.
Go out to drive that night... everything seems good for most of the night, then poof... propeller sound and vibration returns.
Based on what I have read thus far, the first thing I suspect are the weights not staying in place, which seems to support the observation: "it was working fine then went back out of balance in a matter of a few hundred miles, etc"
This suggests possible problems with the equipment at that specific store, the staff using it, or the process they use (maybe combination of all those issues). I intend to test this theory by going to a different store (same company) I have used in the past and never had issues with to see if their balancing efforts last. If that fails, I will try one last time, but this time with an entirely different company. Any suggestions which company to go to?
If that does not resolve the issue, other scenarios I have read about:
Wheel & Tire Runout: Sometime wheels will still shake and vibrate even after they have been carefully balanced. The problem is often excessive wheel runout or tire runout. Most tires should have less than .030 to .050 inch of runout. An out-of-round tire can produce harmonic vibrations that come and go at various speeds depending on how many "humps" are in the tire.
Runout problems can often be corrected by "match mounting" the tire on the wheel (rotating the tire so the tire high spot is over the rim low spot).
Radial force variation (RFV): This is the amount of change in stiffness of the sidewall and footprint when a load is placed against a tire. Subtle differences in the position of the cords and belts in a tire's construction can create stiff spots that make the tire roll unevenly. The stiff spots act like runout to cause vibrations at various speeds.
Some high end tire balancers (such as the GSP 9700 made by Hunter Engineering) have a large roller that can be placed against the tire to detect runout. If RFV is present, it shows the technician where it is and how to correct it. RFV can be countered by adding offsetting weights and/or rotating the tire on the rim. It also makes it easier to determine if a tire is responsible for a vibration problem or not.
Driveline or Powertrain:
If there is no runout problem, no RFV and the tire is accurately balanced, but the car still vibrates, the vibration is in the driveline or powertrain, not the wheels and tires.
Has anyone ever heard of: Counteract Balancing Beads? http://www.counteractbalancing.com/
Is this just a hyped up sales-pitch? Has anyone used them?
Thanks in advance for any feedback.