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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone have a dealer that they trust that doesn't charge a 20% I'm not trying to sell you a lemon tax? I've been shopping for a week and every dealer on 99 from Tacoma to Everett seems to have nothing but ex-felon's who only seem to know the phrase "Nah, bro." or want at least 20% more than comparable cars on Craigslist.
 

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and every dealer on 99 from Tacoma to Everett
Stop shopping with those bums.

If you are getting a used car look into certified pre owned. Getting a 2008 jettas on 99 in Lynnwood with 120K miles is throwing money away.

If you are getting a new car you can't go wrong with costco. They take the bs negotiations out of it.
 

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Are you planning on using the vehicle for Uber/Lyft? Are you familiar with the types and years eligible for each bracket X/XL/Select/Suv? I would advise against something that only qualifies for X. The rates/Pax suck and you will be ground into a squeaking gerbil in no time. When you have selected a platform/ and vehicle type/ and know your credit score, I could offer more info. In the meantime I would suggest you shop Kirkland Ford. Don't give them your email or phone #, and Don't Sign Anything. Just get prices and note what is available for the platform you've selected. Yes their prices will seem high compared to getting a car from C/List. You can't get a CarFax from C/List!! Read everything on these forums by Ballard Driver and Dex
Nex. Good Luck.

Are you planning on using the vehicle for Uber/Lyft? Are you familiar with the types and years eligible for each bracket X/XL/Select/Suv? I would advise against something that only qualifies for X. The rates/Pax suck and you will be ground into a squeaking gerbil in no time. When you have selected a platform/ and vehicle type/ and know your credit score, I could offer more info. In the meantime I would suggest you shop Kirkland Ford. Don't give them your email or phone #, and Don't Sign Anything. Just get prices and note what is available for the platform you've selected. Yes their prices will seem high compared to getting a car from C/List. You can't get a CarFax from C/List!! Read everything on these forums by Ballard Driver and Dex
Nex. Good Luck.
Avoid the VW Tiguan. UberFish had one and it cost him an extra 5 grand!
 

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Stop shopping with those bums.

If you are getting a used car look into certified pre owned. Getting a 2008 jettas on 99 in Lynnwood with 120K miles is throwing money away.

If you are getting a new car you can't go wrong with costco. They take the bs negotiations out of it.
I tried Costco's service on two different car purchases. I walked away both times. My conclusion: if that's the best you can do then you need to learn how to bargain harder. (I'm cruel when it comes to negotiating for cars.)
 

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Best deals in the Puget are right outside of SeaTac Int. Hertz, Dollar & Enterprise rental car sales... Avis you select off their website.

My second car has been purchased at one of the above for the last three purchases I've made. These guys buy brand new in bulk from the manufacturer, who in return give them a nice discount for their bulk purchase(s), along with the agreement that they will take back their cars, IF they are maintained to the manufacturers specifications. These spec's are far better then we normally treat our cars and compound that with people don't abuse their rentals like they used to, and you're getting an absolute rock solid car at a deep discount. I purchased a 2016 Toyota Corolla S Type w/moon roof, leather, all bells n whistles, under 30k miles for stupid cheap, plus Hertz gave me 2 years free sat radio and 9k in points (three weeks free rentals). I've bought in Seattle, Miami, NJ and DC....always super service and never a hassle or mark up, can't speak highly enough of going this route. Dollar Sales in SeaTac is great, Hertz is also a winner too.
 

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Here are some basic questions:

One, will you need to finance the car, or are you buying cash? How much cash? Can point you towards $5000 cars.
Two, do you plan to use the car in general or you specifically buying for rideshare? Don't buy a car just for
This gig.
Three, do you intend to be a full-time driver or just a part timer?

Your answers will help us advise the best routes .

As far as somebody saying you can't get a Carfax, you sure can get a Carfax by buying one about the car . It might be a wise investment in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I ended up buying a 2013 Kia Soul, 65k miles, clean carfax for $9500, I'm a fan of the look and seemed comfortable and roomy to me.

I'm a workaholic, I plan on doing this 35-45 hours a week and 20 on a project I'm trying to get going.

Here are some basic questions:

One, will you need to finance the car, or are you buying cash? How much cash? Can point you towards $5000 cars.
Two, do you plan to use the car in general or you specifically buying for rideshare? Don't buy a car just for
This gig.
Three, do you intend to be a full-time driver or just a part timer?

Your answers will help us advise the best routes .

As far as somebody saying you can't get a Carfax, you sure can get a Carfax by buying one about the car . It might be a wise investment in advance.
 

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Anyone have a dealer that they trust that doesn't charge a 20% I'm not trying to sell you a lemon tax? I've been shopping for a week and every dealer on 99 from Tacoma to Everett seems to have nothing but ex-felon's who only seem to know the phrase "Nah, bro." or want at least 20% more than comparable cars on Craigslist.
I don't see any way to attach a file . . . . I'd be willing to share my collection of dealership URLs, including KBB and Edmunds.com links to cars for sale . . .

I've been on the hunt for about eight months now . . .

I tried Costco's service on two different car purchases. I walked away both times. My conclusion: if that's the best you can do then you need to learn how to bargain harder. (I'm cruel when it comes to negotiating for cars.)
AMEN!!
 

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End of month, end of quarter, It's business leave the emotion at home. If you don't like the terms DO NOT BUY. Negotiate. Why settle? THere is someone out there that will sell a car to you on your terms. They make money on a sale. Not a walk away. End of the month they will move, End of the quarter they will move more. End of year they will move. You however have to have the power in cash or an absurd credit score and resources. Cash talks BS walks. it's true. Do not buy a car for this because work. If you do find something you can work on for get the bonuses and provide the service on your terms.
 

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End of month, end of quarter, It's business leave the emotion at home. If you don't like the terms DO NOT BUY. Negotiate. Why settle? THere is someone out there that will sell a car to you on your terms. They make money on a sale. Not a walk away. End of the month they will move, End of the quarter they will move more. End of year they will move. You however have to have the power in cash or an absurd credit score and resources. Cash talks BS walks. it's true. Do not buy a car for this because work. If you do find something you can work on for get the bonuses and provide the service on your terms.
Bingo. One of the best deals my dad ever made was on a pickup he bought at close of business New Year's Eve. He planned that purchase. He knew what he wanted. He went late that day and worked them to the bone before signing on the dotted line.

I have ended negotiations and walked out of a dealership more than once.

It takes just as many hours to buy a new car with cash as if you're financing it.

Learn to negotiate with car dealers. No emotional attachment to a vehicle. No more concern for that salesperson than he/she has for you. It'll prepare you for dealing with funeral homes. Now there's some suckers that really try and prey on your emotions.

Your mom buys cars.
Nah, she left that to me.
 

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OP already purchased, so kind of a dead thread, but in case anyone else runs across it at some point... I used to sell cars for awhile. Did not like that job because I'm more of a "Let's work out a fair deal for both of us" kind of a person, and selling cars is not that kind of thing. You kind of have to try to nail people as hard as possible every time because nowadays 90% of your buyers DO in fact get rippin' deals because of all the info online. So you have to try to REALLY milk that 10% hard. Anyway, was not my cup of tea.

There has been some good advice in this thread. Other than what has already been mentioned the VERY MOST IMPORTANT thing I can say is ALREADY KNOW THE MODEL YOU WANT TO BUY BEFORE CALLING OR GOING ANYWHERE. Never just go shopping for random cars with "I want a 4 door sedan" in your head. You HAVE to research and find the specific models that fit your wants/needs, look up pricing data in KBB/Edmunds etc, then look at the real world asking prices out there on Craigslist, Autotrader, eBay Motors etc. Seemingly similar cars can vary wildly in pricing, and one way a car salesman can make a killing is switching you from a seemingly similar model to a different one that is "cheaper" in total dollars, but in reality is closer to top dollar for that model still. So while it might not be a bad car, you're not going to get a great deal that way.

If you properly research the models you are interested in, take them for test drives, don't sign nothin' until you've tried all the models you are considering... Then you can consider actually finding the specific car you want, and haggling a good deal on it and figuring out what a good deal even is via research.

Other stuff would be to try to line up your own financing first. Good place to start is per-approval with your bank. That way they can't play the financing game with you. Sometimes they can actually get kickbacks from the finance companies for getting you to sign off on saaay 15% interest, when in reality the bank approved you for 8%, and they get a kickback on the overage of 7%. If you don't have financing lined up, or at least know that you have great credit, they can play a lot of games there. If you have really bad credit just realize you often cannot haggle the pricing on the car, or the financing rate as easily. Dealers do in fact have to PAY the banks (or rat bag small/indie sub prime finance company) an up front fee to even accept the risk on some loans, which means they might not be able to budge off asking price and still be making anything themselves. So know where you stand on the credit front if you're financing.
 

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done a few used auto loans from becu. very easy, dirt cheap, and fast. my credit score is in the stratosphere so that helps though.
 

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done a few used auto loans from becu. very easy, dirt cheap, and fast. my credit score is in the stratosphere so that helps though.
BECU has always been one of the best for auto loans, only one that was ever better terms was maybe USAA. A dealership will almost never be able to get you a better rate than one you will get from BECU if you're approved by them. BECU is a bit picky in terms of the customers they even allow to bank with them though, so not always an option for everybody.
 

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My second car has been purchased at one of the above for the last three purchases I've made.
Yikes, no thanks Rental cars are risky. They are generally not well taken care of since people don't really take care of them other than cosmetically.

I would rather pay a little more for something that I know is more likely to last.
 

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You however have to have the power in cash or an absurd credit score and resources.
Cash does not matter when buying a dealer anymore. Doesn't matter if you cut the check or the bank does. They will get their money right away.

BECU has always been one of the best for auto loans, only one that was ever better terms was maybe USAA. A dealership will almost never be able to get you a better rate than one you will get from BECU if you're approved by them. BECU is a bit picky in terms of the customers they even allow to bank with them though, so not always an option for everybody.
Actually becu will loan to any member. And to be a member all you have to do is live in Washington state. The better your credit the better of a rate they will give you.
 
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